Tulsa Food

I believe in drinking sparkling wine all year round, in fact, it is a rare week, as I live with a self-professed bubbles addict, where I don’t drink sparkling wine. Even our house water is sparkling – Seltzer water! However, this is the time of year when people typically turn their attention to the bubbly stuff for Christmas and other seasonal celebration, and of course New Year’s Eve and its night of merriment.

Tulsa is awash with lots of good sparkling wines, at all price points. Great strides have been made all over the globe, and while nothing quite matches the fine wines of Champagne, lots of areas are coming close. People have been amazed at the sparkling wines I recently brought back with me from England. They are superb! Australia also makes fine sparkling wines, in fact one of the best I had this year was from Jacob’s Creek, but sadly it’s not available in Tulsa. The only style I do not enjoy are the sparkling Shiraz from Australia. I truly think this is a waste of good Shiraz fruit.

When it comes to your hard earned cash you can spend a pretty moderate amount, or you can push the boat out. Given the poor storage conditions of wines in most stores in town, I am always wary of purchasing aged wines (never let a sales person tell you storage under bright fluorescent lights is a good thing and hopefully they wont even try to tell you that) I am always wary about wines I have no idea how long they’ve been on the shelves. Most sparkling wines are non-vintage, which means they come from base and new wines of indeterminate age. A few wineries now mark their wines with production dates, but they are in the minority. But, in this rare case, a little brisk artificial ageing isn’t a bad thing, because as non-vintage sparkling wine ages (especially Champagne) they actually improve. You can safely keep a good non-vintage for at least five years, and like any good wine, it will improve and gain complexity.

Here is my fantasy case of favorite bubbles, listed progressively in terms of price, with value very much in mind. I must admit, both the Champagnes (only wine produced in Champagne can be termed as such, everything else is sparkling wine) I list are by far the best wines in my mixed case. They have a complexity, a deftness and a finesse that others can’t quite match, although they are very, very good. And please do not underestimate the other French wines listed below which, for the money, are steals. I drink all of them often. Every wine, apart from the Champalou, which I’ve only seen at Ranch Acres (31st and S. Harvard) is available at Parkhill’s at 51st and S. Lewis. Parkhill’s has by far the most complete and extensive selection in town. It is where I but pretty much all of my bubbles year round. (Note: prices are subject to change and exclude tax.)

After you’ve picked up your wines, follow my quick tips for maximizing your sparkling wine enjoyment.

Cheers!!!

Mark Stenner’s Mixed Case of Sparkling Wine

Barefoot, California, NV Brut Cuvée ($10)

I’ve talked about this wine before. Why? Because it is simply consistent and delicious, with beautiful bright citrus Chardonnay fruit flavors. It is also bone-dry, something I seek in my bubbles!

Rémy Pannier, Loire, Marquis de La Tour NV Brut Rosé ($12)

It is a total myth and fallacy that the only good bubbles come from Champagne. There is great stuff at much cheaper price points from lots of regions of France, especially the Loire, where real value still exists. Both the standard NV and Rosé from Pannier is terrific. I love the fine bubbles in this wine, and the lovely red fruit flavors, mostly raspberry and strawberry.

Montsarra, Cava, NV Brut ($17)

This rich and deft Cava is made with a blend of three grape varieties – Macabeo, Xarello, and Parellada – all carefully selected from the Montsarra vineyard in the Premeds region of Spain. Did you know that Cava’s name derives from the Spanish word for an underground cellar, which became the term for the production method now known simply as ‘método tradicional’ (traditional method), in Spanish? You do now!

Vega Barcelona, Cava, NV Brut ($17)

Another stellar Cava at a sensible price point. This has a full body and lots of beautiful white fruits. Sublime.

Domaine Ehrhart, Crémant d’Alsace, NV Cuvée Prestige Chardonnay Brut ($19)

This elegant and smooth bubbly and is an organic one to boot! This is what all about artisan sparkling wine is about.

René Muré, Crémant d’Alsace, NV Brut ($20)

This crémant is made with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Only perfectly sound grapes are harvested, to reach the most finesse and liveliness in the crémant. All grapes are sourced from the clay- and limestone soils of the Rouffach’s area. This origin gives citrus and yellow fruit aromas and fine structure to this delightful crémant d’Alsace brut.

Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County, Blanc de Noirs Brut ($21)

American sparkling wines have come a long way in recent decades, and Gloria Ferrer is a great examples. Blanc du Noirs wines are made with pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, hence the name. I love this wine, because it shows lovely rich red fruit flavors. Delightful.

Jean Claude Thevenet, Burgundy, NV Vin Mousseux Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay ($24)

Never, ever forget Burgundy for wine sparkling wines! I am so grateful that Milton at Parkhill’s for bringing in these incredible wines. They are superb values. This wine is 100% Chardonnay from vines that are on average twenty years old. It’s complex and delicious, with an ethereal, light body. It dances over the tongue!

Champalou, Vouvray, NV Brut ($24)

Wow, I only tried this wine last week and it bowled me over with it’s beautiful green apple and kiwi fruit flavors. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc, this impeccable wine from one of my favorite Loire producers, is a home run!

Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, NV Brut Rosé ($35)

I love the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County in Northern County and it was a real treat to visit and taste here a couple of years ago. This beautifully colored wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and is one of my favorite rosés produced anywhere. Rich and full-bodied, it gains additional complexity with a few years in bottle.

Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne, NV Cuvée Brut ($40)

A blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 15% Chardonnay, this is a classic non-vintage Champagne that delights year-in and year-out. The house style stresses freshness and vivacity. I love the almond and yeast on the nose, and the biscuity and toasty mouth-feel. When in doubt I always pick up Piper.

Billecart-Salmon, Champagne, NV Brut Réserve ($45)

At last week’s TWC Sparkling event this was the clear hit of the tasting. Complex, compelling, with peach, pears and white flowers all over the nose, and then a rich and mouth-filling palate, with gorgeous secondary flavors. Stunning.

Enjoying Sparkling Wines: Serving & Pouring

Things to Consider

• Champagne bottles are thicker than normal so the wine takes longer to chill.
• Champagne can be served at 45 degrees and up. Other sparkling wines in the low 40s.

Follow these simple steps to guarantee a fine and impressive pouring experience

• Break the foil and remove the wire cage from around the cork. Place your right thumb over the cork as you do this to prevent the cork from flying.
• Assuming you are right handed, hold the wine by the punt in your left hand and slowly tip the bottle to 45 degrees.
• Holding the cork firmly, begin twisting the bottle in one direction as you twist the bottle in the other. Ease the cork out with a gentle hiss. As they say in France, the sound of the cork leaving the bottle should imitate a contented woman’s sigh!
• Pour two inches into each glass and then go back around and top up as required.
• Enjoy!

Food & Champagne

Sparkling wine is much more than a special occasions wine and pairs beautifully with many everyday food choices. It’s great with a pizza or salad or hard to match cuisine like Thai, Japanese and Chinese. The most important quality of sparkling wines in terms of food matching is its texture. Its bubbles can cut through a crisp coating (hence its success with canapés and deep-fried foods), lift creamy or rich, eggy sauces such as hollandaise, and counteract the palate-coasting effect of egg yolk or rich cheese. It also complements food with a delicate texture of its own such as rice (especially sushi and risotto), oysters and caviar.

Fresh-crisp styles match well with:

• Asparagus
• Salmon Carpaccio
• Garlicky sauces
• Light cheese sauces (Gruyère rather than Cheddar)
• Dim sum
• Tart fruits (rhubarb, raspberries)

Fuller, richer styles match well with:

• Roasted sea bass
• Light meat or game dishes with mushroom or chestnuts
• Mild curry sauces (esp. with saffron)

Here are a few basics to keep in mind, as offered by Domaine Ste. Michelle:

The hotter or spicier the food, the sweeter the sparkling wine should be – Extra Dry
The sweeter the desserts, the drier the sparkling wine should be – a Blanc de Blanc
Richer more complex flavors work well with medium sparkling wines – a Cuvée Brut or Blanc de Noir

About the Tulsa Wine Club:

Mark Stenner is the organizer of the Tulsa Wine Club, a local tasting group that meets once a month to sample wines. The tastings take place in private homes in the Tulsa metro area, and are casual and fun events. Participants of all age ranges enjoy 10-12 wines per event, served alongside the food each member contributes to the evening. They welcome anyone with an interest in wine, whether novice or expert. Mark believes in learning through osmosis, drinking wine and forming your own evaluation of your experience.

For information about the club, please email Mark at tulsawineclub@yahoo.com